Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Setting Plants Out Early Using a Wall O' Water

!±8± Setting Plants Out Early Using a Wall O' Water

To get started, till your soil and work in plenty of good rotted compost. Lightly rake the row. Mark off your row after you decide how far apart your plants should be and carefully rake a two foot square pretty flat. This is especially important if you, like me, have a hillside garden. You want your little tipi village to sit level, or the first good wind will blow them downhill. Pick out any sharp rocks or roots.

Wall O' Water are made of plastic and will puncture. I usually wait until the spring weather has settled quite well before I plant my plants. (But the manufacturer has said to set the Wall O' Waters out even earlier than I do while the temperatures are still freezing, as the Wall O' Waters actually warm the soil and allow you to plant that much earlier. In a few days the soil is warm enough to plant and sprout your seedlings, even though the surrounding landscape is still frozen.)

To plant, I dig out a nice hole and set my plant in, firming the soil nicely around it. Then sit an upside down four or five-gallon plastic bucket over the transplant, centering it over the plant. I slip the Wall O' Water sleeve over the bucket. I line up the seams of the sleeve with the places the bail attaches to the bucket. It's easier to lift the bucket off later on. With a garden hose or watering can, fill the tubes. A helper at this point is really handy. If one person opens the tubes, it's easy to insert the hose (without sprinkler nozzle) and fill the tube. It's harder to open the tubes and run the hose by yourself.

Fill all of the tubes, nearly to the top. You won't gain anything by filling them all the way full, as some water will spill when you pull the bucket out. With two hands, reach into the Wall O' Water and grasp the sides of the bucket and gently haul it straight up and out. As you pull the bucket, the tops of the cylinder will collapse against each other, making a tipi instead of a cylinder. This provides even more plant protection.

I use both overhead sprinklers and drip irrigation in my gardens. I use the sprinklers when the plants are young and small. This allows me to thoroughly weed around each plant so the rows are weed-free when we put the drip system into place. If you want to use your drip system from the start, simply lay it out on your row after it has been tilled and raked. Then when you plant your transplant, simply take a finger and dig a shallow trench on both sides of the Wall O' Water to keep the bottom flat on the ground, despite the drip pipe.

Once you get the hang of using them, the Wall O' Water's are easy to use and will surely save those early starts for you and put you will ahead of the season once spring kicks in.


Setting Plants Out Early Using a Wall O' Water

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Saturday, November 26, 2011

Tips on Watering Your Garden Effectively

!±8± Tips on Watering Your Garden Effectively

If you have read my previous articles on soil, compost, plant nutrients and mulching, then you will realise that you are now beginning to understand how to garden successfully. I would now like to talk about watering your garden effectively. A lot of people think they are watering their garden properly, when actually they aren't and their plants are stressed. Watering is not difficult, but there are a few issues to be aware of. Often after we have watered, we notice the water is running down the drive and that it has not soaked into the soil. This also happens with pot plants, that we think we have watered them properly when in reality the watering is running freely out of the bottom of the pot and the root ball is still dry. We also need to be aware that after it has rained, that the water may only have penetrated the top few centimetres of the topsoil and it is still bone dry underneath.

Watering is one of the most important jobs you can do in the garden and it can be very relaxing. Just zoning out, not thinking too much and interacting with nature while you are hand watering can be fantastic. But it isn't as easy as you think. Most people over water their gardens and often plants can survive with less water. In Melbourne (Australia), everyone thought camellias couldn't withstand dry soil, but with our 11 year drought they proved us gardeners wrong and showed they are very tough plants. Plants can become addicted to water, but you can wean them off it, by slowly reducing the amount you give them. For example if you water every day, trying watering every second day, then every third day, then once a week, then once every two weeks. Of course it does depend on the species of plants you have. Azaleas in hot climates will suffer if they are only watered once every two weeks.

Plant Choice

When choosing plants it is important to understand their requirements and these are some questions you should ask yourself:

Do they need sun or shade? Are they a drought tolerant or swamp plant? Do they like sandy or clay soil? Do they come from a hot climate (desert) or a cold climate (mountains)? Are they a surface rooted plant? Will they rot if they receive too much water? Will they die if they receive too little water?

There is an old gardening adage that is it is better to water deeply for 20 minutes three times a week, than sprinkle water over the garden every day for a few minutes. Longer, deeper watering forces the roots to go down after it. Thus the added benefit of this is that soil is cooler in hot weather, giving plants the ability to withstand extremely high summer temperatures. Plants such as azaleas and silver birches are more likely to suffer because they are naturally surfaced rooted. The best way to help these plants is to mulch around the drip line (edge of the canopy).

That is why it is so important to continually improve your soil structure. If you constantly incorporate animal manure or compost you will find that your soils water holding capacity increases dramatically. For established garden beds, the best way to incorporate the organic matter is to put it on top of the soil and let the worms work it down for you, as digging deeply could damage the roots. With new garden beds, the best method is to dig it in to a spades depth.

Watering Systems

I am not a big fan of watering systems, mainly because they don't water evenly and effectively. I understand people who have a big garden haven't got the time to hand water the whole garden, but there are many pitfalls with them. They miss plants, break, get blocked and once repaired are never as efficient as when they were new.

Many people, think that just because they have installed the latest and greatest watering system, that they never have to bother watering again. Well, that is not true. Watering systems need to be checked at least twice a year that they are working properly and you need to check the water is going where you want it too. Pipes have a habit of moving and breaking. Another problem with sprinkler systems is that they just don't have the pressure to pump out enough water for it to soak in more than a few centimetres. If you dig down, you find the soil is bone dry. Sprinklers also miss parts of the garden creating dry spots. It is a good idea to run the watering system and observe what is happening, to see where the water is actually going. Every spring, you need to take the end stopper out of the pipe and run the system to try and flush out dirt, spiders and any other blockages.

In countries where water is precious, drippers are often the preferred watering system. The idea behind drippers is they deliver the water straight to the roots and none is wasted by evaporation. This is true, but often the plants roots congregated around the drippers hole. This often makes plants especially trees unstable in windy conditions because all the roots are in one place (or one side of the trunk). One way to overcome this uneven distrubition of plants roots is to make sure that the drippers holes are regularly and evenly placed. If you have dripper heads on lines, then you can move them around the base of the plant and this prevents a build up of roots in one place. Watering systems are there to supplement the natural rain fall and not to be relied upon to always provide moisture to your garden.

Natural Rainfall

There is nothing that excites a gardener more (especially if you are living with drought) than rain. Everything perks up again and the world seem fresh and clean. We gardeners all tend to think that the rain has given the ground a good soaking and we won't have to water for a while. Well I hate to disappoint you, but often the rain hasn't actually penetrated into the soil and it is still dry. After rain, I recommend you go out into the garden and scratch around under the mulch and plants and observe how damp your soil is. You may get a nasty surprise, that it isn't as wet as you hoped. Also be aware of dry places such as under house eaves, under shrubs and large trees. They may need to be watered.

Too Little or Too Much Water

Insufficient water or too much water can cause plants to become stressed and attractive to insects such as aphids, scale, mealy bug, thrip, mites and white fly. Controlling these pests is going to hit your hip pocket because you may need to buy chemical sprays. If however, you observe that the soil is too dry and ameliorate the problem by increasing the amount of water, then you won't need to buy expensive chemicals. Another problem of insufficient water is that fruit trees often drop their flowers or their maturing fruit. This is a survivable mechanism and it is important at flowering and fruit set to make sure the plant is getting enough moisture. Too much water can also be a problem as it takes up the pore space that is normally fill with oxygen. All plant roots need oxygen and if it is not there, then they will die. In flood, the water takes the space of the oxygen and thus the plant drowns. So drainage is very important.

Pot Plants

And lastly, watering pots can also be tricky as the potting mixes wears out and the pots become root bound. Often you will see water running straight out the bottom of the pot and the potting mix is still bone dry. This is a sign it is time to repot your plant into either the same size pot (with some root removal) or into the next size. Good quality potting mix contains water holding granules, but you can also add your own. I suggest that you hydrate them first, as if you put them in dry, it is very easy to put too much and your plant will suffer and not establish a good root system. It is very easy, just get an old cup, put in 1/2 a teaspoon, add water and leave them for about 10 minutes. When you come back, you will notice they have swelled up and then you can accurately measure the amount you want. If it is a really big pot and impossible to move, one trick is to block the drainage holes with bluetak or something that can be removed later, flood the pot with water and leave it for about 24 hours or until the air bubbles have stopped. This will re-wet the root ball. Then remove the bluetak and allow the excess water to drain away.

Now don't despair and decide gardening and watering is too difficult, as all you can do is your best. But it is handy to be aware of the problems, so when they pop up you can work out a solution or visit your local nursery and get some advice. If you follow the simple rules of adding compost, animal manures and mulching, then you are a long way there to making sure you water and conserve water properly.

http://gardenpatch.com.au/


Tips on Watering Your Garden Effectively

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Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Drip Irrigation - A More Harvest To Your Onion

!±8± Drip Irrigation - A More Harvest To Your Onion

In tropical countries like the Philippines, the traditional way of growing bulb onions is without irrigation. But with the advent of low priced onion from nearby China, the traditional way of growing onions is no longer as competitive and profitable as it was. Hence, the farmers has to adopt new methods on how to increase their produce but with less production cost in order to compete with the prevailing market price. It is at this instance that they adopted the Israel drip irrigation technology in their agricultural endeavor. In using the technology in a garden plot area of two thousand square meters, it has accommodated four hundred grams of red bulb onion seeds. During harvest time, it has yielded around one hundred eighty eight net bags of bulb onions where each bag weighs twenty seven kilograms but buying price by traders under consideration is only twenty five kilograms with two kilograms allowance for shrinkage.

Under the traditional methods, forty five net bags can only be produced in the four hundred grams of seeds but with drip irrigation it has yielded four times than the traditional way. With this rate of production, the farmers could still make a profit even if the price in the market is low like the cheap onion from China. Though there are additional cost incurred in adopting the technology, it can easily be recovered with the increase yield. Besides, the drip lines are reusable for several years. So the initial cost, can be depreciated a number of years. The produce is also noted to be of better quality because they are heavier and with firmer texture and therefore, they have a longer shelf life. One onion bulb weighs ninety seven grams against the bulb grown the traditional way which weighs only sixty five grams.

Growing onions the drip irrigation way is also very convenient to use, by opening the control valve for a few minutes a day and all the onion plants get their dose of moisture and nutrients for their proper growth and development. A three point four (3.4o) kilogram of fertilizers are applied to the drip line every other day or about a hundred for the entire crop season for a two thousand square meters garden plot. The two thousand square meters area was divided into thirty six plots each measuring twenty five meters long (82 ft.), point eight meter wide (2.60 ft.) and point two meter high (o.67 ft.). Six rows of seedling distanced at point one meter apart (0.34 ft) were planted in each plot. Two drip lines are installed in each plot. The seedlings were planted after one month and three weeks since the seeds germination. The drip lines were open fifteen minutes each day when the plants were still small until he drippers were opened up to thirty three minutes a day when the plants are fully grown. The water comes from an elevated tank and the same is supplied by means of gravity. In addition to what has been mentioned, the importance of selecting quality seeds and improved propagation techniques have also contributed to the increase in harvests of the onion.


Drip Irrigation - A More Harvest To Your Onion

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